This is where I stayed, and it is my personal favorite hotel in town. The accommodations are spread throughout the tree lined property in chalés, amongst gardens and stone walkways. The restaurant serves three meals a day, if you are keen on spending more time here, in a lovely restaurant with a sprawling deck. Breakfast is included, and includes options for all sorts of diets, and has fresh juices, regional dishes and treats.

The rooms are on the smaller side, but comfortable enough for 2-3 adults, and include both air conditioning and ceiling fans. All the basic apartments have a small varanda with a hammock, and the classic suites have a small living area, and a deck with table and chairs. Perfect for some down time after a day of activities.

The hotel participates in many projects related to sustainability in the region, showers are solar powered, and their staff is trained to separate recyclable trash, reuse paper, and all kitchen oil is donated to a local charity that reuses it so it doesn’t go down the drain.

The Olho d’Água is ideal for those who rent a car to visit Bonito, because it’s a bit outside of the city center (about a 10 minute drive). This is perfect for a quiet night’s sleep, but not ideal if you don’t have your own transportation to get around in town!

Other options we like are:

Águas de Bonito – A small hotel, closer to the center, but far enough from the noise, with lovely perk of having an afternoon “pantaneiro” coffee break, perfect for coming home after a day of tours.

Pousada Jubaia – Our suggestion for budget travelers, just one block away from the main square, with basic, but clean rooms, and on site agency for tours.

Hotel Santa Esmeralda – The closest to a luxury option in Bonito, this charming hotel offers breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner in its rates, mostly due to its remote location. It’s ideal for those who have a car hire, and really want to get away from it all, staying nestled in nature, in gorgeous, comfortable accommodations.

What to Do

Bonito is an ecotourism dreamland of sorts. Here, ,you can visit waterfalls, take hikes to lookouts, go snorkeling in crystal clear rivers, and observe wildlife. Most of the attractions are privately owned reserves, which are pristinely kept, and worth each real spent. The tours are all run on a voucher system, which helps keep tourists in the city to a maximum number at each time, and makes for smaller group tours, and in turn, higher levels of conservation! They’re all run by licensed, mostly local guides, who are well equipped to help in safety instructions and knowledge of the region.

Viare Travel makes sure to work with companies that use the voucher system rates, but not all agencies do, so make sure you ask what’s included in services, in case the prices are over what the standard rates show. You can find these on the local tourist association’s site: Atratur.

Some of our favorite activities are:

Snorkeling Activities

The snorkeling activities are the most popular in Bonito. The one we did on our last visit, is the most challenging, and apt for those who have the energy to snorkel 2 km down a river! There’s an easy hike to the river, which is a little over 1 km, where you learn about the different flora and if you’re lucky, spot some fauna in the reserve, before getting to the river.

If you’re not much of a swimmer, or just get sick easily whilst snorkeling, we recommend some of the shorter snorkeling trips, such as the Rio Sucuri or Lagoa Misteriosa tours.

For all tours, you’re supplied with proper snorkeling equipment and attire, as well as safety instructions and a licensed guide.

Waterfall Tours

I am a sucker for waterfalls. I love how they look, I love diving into a chilly pool in the river after a long trek, and I love standing under a waterfall. It’s the most refreshing and incredibly energizing feeling! So you can imagine my delight when we took the Estância Mimosa tour that takes you to NINE different falls. They were all relatively small too, which is perfect for swimming. Even after it rained during our tour, the water was beautiful and inviting for dips into the chilly, rainy waters.

Other options are the Parque das Cachoeiras – a park dedicated to the waterfalls in the region, and the Boca d’Onça, which is the region’s largest waterfall. This tour involved a 4 mile hike, stopping at smaller waterfalls, before arriving to the highest. If you like adventure, the tour offers and option to go rappeling on a 90 m descent over the River Salobra Canyon.

Cave Visits

Probable the town’s most famous “postcard” site, is the Gruta do Lago Azul: 

This is a visit to a cave, which involves a 300 stair-step descent to the lagoon. It’s a naturally formed lagoon, and swimming is not allowed, in order to preserve its condition. Depending on the light that hits the lake on your tour, you’re in for a real treat, where the blue of the water contrasts against the white scalactites! The picture above was taken on our tour, on a cloudy day!

There are two other caves to visit in the region, and this particular one can be done in the same morning at the Grutas de São Miguel, which also includes a short hike through the forest, for flora and fauna observation.

Birdwatching Tours 

On our visit, we went to the neighbouring town of “Jardim,” a more affordable town for accommodations, but with less infrastructure than Bonito. There, you can find a magnificent attraction called the “Buraco das Araras.” The site is a is a doline, which is a geological formation resulting from the collapse of boulders creating this huge cavity. It is 500 meters in circumference and 100 meters deep. At the bottom of the hole, a pond of green water, surrounded by lush forest, home to alligators – we still don’t know how they survive there! There are currently 60 red macaw couples living there, and you’ll always find one or two willing to pose for the camera.

Where to Eat & Drink 

In terms of friendly and prompt hospitality, Bonito is one of the most impressive destinations in Brazil. This is seen on tours, as well as in town, when you go out for drinks and meals. Below are our top 3 stops. They’re places where you’ll feel great, eat and drink well, and also – know you’re doing some good for the community.

Taboa Bar 

Here, you can drink and dine indoors or al fresco, on wooden tables, drawn all over by past guests. If you ask the server for a marker, they’ll lend you one so you can contribute! Their menu is filled with Brazilian bar fare, which includes mostly appetizers for sharing, but also local soups and dishes. They produce their own special cachaça, which is a spirit mixed with herbs, guaraná powder, cinamon and lime, served over ice! The bar hires and trains locals to work at the bar and restaurant, as well as the adjacent gift shop – which sells their cachaça and crafts. They also own a workshop, where they produce the drinks and crafts, and travelers can visit, and learn about the drink’s production process, as well as meet the local artisans who produce the clay pieces sold at the shop. A great atmosphere to unwind after a day of tours! The menu here is in Portuguese and English 🙂

Bonito Beer 

Try the local craft beer at this small bar, right on the town’s main square, with wide, comfortable tables set on the sidewalk, for mingling with other guests. The bar has a pay for the weight of your drink system, where you purchase credits that are put on to a token, which you take to a wall lined with taps, and press the token next to the beer you’d like to taste. It’s a great way to try all their beers, taking just a few sips of each. We personally loved their “West Coast” American IPA. If you’re hungry, you can order a pizza here, which you can ask them to cut up into small pieces and share!

Casa do João 

For a sit down dinner, this large, beautiful restaurant a couple of blocks away from the main street, is perfect for trying the local fare, and experiencing the city’s excellent service and hospitality. The waitstaff is incredibly friendly and seem genuinely happy to be there. The owner, João, no longer works in the kitchen, but he’ll go from table to table in his sprawling space, to say hello and ask how things are going. The dishes here are large, and most if not all can be shared by at least 2 people. We ordered the traira, which is the house’s main dish, and it’s a large filet of local fresh water fish, which comes with a series of sides (the cole slaw-like salad is divine), which you can repeat if you run out, at no extra charge. The restaurant also offers a series of vegetarian options, and the Guavira (a local fruit from the nearby savannah) petit gateau is drool worthy. This restaurant also has a menu in English, perfect for international visitors.

That’s what we have for now! Have you been to Bonito or would you like to visit soon? We’ll be happy to answer any questions or add your tips to our post – just leave your thoughts and questions in the comments below!

We hope you’ve enjoyed our tips on visiting Bonito! If you’d like to visit Mato Grosso do Sul, Bonito and the Southern Pantanal, we have done on site inspections in these destinations, and would be happy to help you plan this portion of your trip to Brazil. Just find us here: Contact Viare Travel.